So that night we slept something between 9 and 10 hours, which considering that we were in the living room of a house inhabited by 4 young boys, is quite surprising. Upon waking up we didn’t have to talk about our next stop, we both were thinking the same thing: brunch! Our budget, as you may have already guessed, is not big stuff, but thanks to our dearest friends, and friends of friends, we had some savings that were being kept for this special occasion: food in New Orleans!
And honestly… worth every penny. EVERY. SINGLE. PENNY. Seriously, what happened to these people down here: why??? Why is food so good here?!? Whoever says that American food is not special hasn’t been to New Orleans. Challenge posed! Those who accept it, may start by having brunch at Coulis (on Prytania St). Mari had the bestest special French toast filled with cream cheese, caramelized green apples and smoked sausage. What??? Smoked sausage with caramelized fruit? That’s it, baby. Yes…that’s it. Syd had buckwheat pancakes with fruit and chocolate so rich that died at the first bite because it was heavenly and again at the last bite because she was so full. We spent 20 min in silence, just keeping the necessary eye contact to make sure that we were having the same amazing, indescribable experience.
Then, as good tourists, French Quarter at day light. Beautiful… Syd is absolutely in love with the city and she says that it is already her second choice if things don’t work out as expected in San Francisco (but sure they will, too bad for Nawlins….).
It was raining all day, but it was not a problem at all and didn't infringe upon our excitement. We spent a lot of time in stores of used books and antiques (Mari’s and Syd’s personal paradises, respectively). Syd bought herself a pendant with the famous city symbol and Mari found a 1$ old post card from someone in Rio de Janeiro to someone in New Orleans back in the 80’s telling about the “perfect weather” in this February…. Saudade.
Getting our gastronomic tour on track again, we headed to the classic Café du Monde (http://www.cafedumonde.com/) in Jackson Square to try their famous beignets (pastry made from deep-fried dough, similar to a donut, fully covered with confectioner's sugar...sort of like a high class version of funnel cake, or a donut): oh my god, please don’t tell me that you’ve been to this city without trying these things.
From the Café, we headed to the Cabildo (historical building that used to serve as seat of colonial government) just in time to catch the last 30 min of an exposition on the effects of the hurricane Katrina on the City. A real must see.
We had been told by our dear host and tourist guide Will that there would be a highly recommended show in some small bar a little bit far from tourist places with THE BEST trumpet player OF the best city of jazz: Kermit Ruffins. The place was certainly out of our way, and by the time we got there we were without a doubt the only two white people, and probably the only non-locals. When we asked our taxi driver to give us his number he told us that his company didn’t work in the area after 6 pm (it was 6pm…) and advised us to be careful in this neighborhood. The bar had no light signs and the only entrance was a small door on the corner of a dark and deserted street. Syd, being the daughter of Papa and Mama Malawer, immediately began to shit her pants and try and convince Mari to not go, but thanks to Mari's stubbornness (who totally understood Syd’s fear and said she would be disappointed but totally ok to leave the place) and powers of persuasion, Syd was lawyered into staying (and thank god for that!)...
We were than told that the show was going to start only at 7:30. Kermit was already there, quietly sitting in a corner close to the entrance smiling and waving his hand for everyone that entered the place. We got in, found a table and asked for some drinks at which time we realized that we hadn't had dinner and wouldn’t be able to eat for the next 4 hours. Miss, do you have any food… Well, he have chips…. Can we have all of them? Dinner, check: 3 tiny packs of cheetos and 2 tiny packs of lays potato chips.
Soon, we made some friends, a group of fishermen, one of them claiming to have been the first black crab fisherman in New Orleans, and a huge former basketball ball player that would insist on getting us to dance in the next 2 hours. (Sidenote: These guys were so big and had taken to us so well that if anyone had messed with us we had legit bodyguards...or in their words "We gotcha") With this great and entertaining company, we were able to thoroughly enjoy ourselves before the live music began. Syd learned a new AWESOME dance that in her words "Is essentially the new, more coordinated, cooler version of Cotten-Eyed Joe" (name to come...it's written down somewhere just need to find it) while Mari endured more "Brazil is awesome...you're Brazilian??? I want to live in Brazil" praise from our new friends. Then the music started, and if our new friends hadn't made the trip worth it, THIS definitely did! AMAZING music, incredible energy, and entertaining audience participation! While we were fully enjoying the music, a man came over to us to show a half-finished sketch of Syd and asked if he could sit in front of us to finish it. He did, and low and behold a portrait of Syd...Syd if she were a black woman. Now for those of you who don't know, Syd has always dreamed of being black and/or latina and/or essentially any other richly-cultured race other than Caucasian, so this picture was an incredible manifestation of her not-so-secret desire to be black!
So this day hasn't even begun to be over, but we have to save some so that we leave you all wanting more :) so Day 6 to be continued...





